永恒的塞纳河：用37传奇游戏36小时玩转巴黎左岸(双语)

　　What to Do on the Left Bank, Paris

　　如何用36小时玩转巴黎左岸

　　While the Right Bank of Paris has seen internationalism and the irrepressible rise of “bobos” (the Parisian form of hipsters) change its landscape in recent years, the Left Bank has been able to preserve the soul of the French capital. Walk through the Latin Quarter’s crooked cobblestone corridors or down the grand plane-tree-lined boulevards of St.-Germain-des-Prés and, more than once, you’ll think you’re inside a black-and-white Robert Doisneau photo. Cafe terraces, limestone buildings and nattily dressed locals create a timeless tableau. That’s not to say that Paris south of the dividing Seine is immune to change. But at least for now, the classic charms outweigh the contemporary influences。

　　近些年，巴黎右岸开始呈现国际化趋势，波波族(bobo，巴黎的时尚人士)势不可挡，改变了那里的景象，而巴黎左岸则得以保存法国首都的灵魂。穿过 拉丁区弯弯曲曲的鹅卵石小巷，或者在圣日耳曼德佩区的梧桐树大道上漫步，你会不止一次感觉自己置身于罗伯特·杜瓦诺(Robert Doisneau)的黑白照片中。咖啡馆露台、石灰岩建筑和着装精致的当地人创造出永恒的生动画面。并不是说巴黎的塞纳河南岸没有变化。不过，至少现在， 传统魅力盖过了当代影响力。

　　1. Appetite Awakener | 3:30 p.m。

　　1. 唤醒食欲 | 下午3点半

　　The Left Bank is home to cultural, fashion and artistic riches, but one of the best ways to immerse yourself in French culture is with food. Paris by Mouth, a five-year-old foodie website, offers three-hour small-group tours, including the popular Taste of St.-Germain (95 euros, or about $100 at $1.05 to the euro)， which will prime you for the weekend’s culinary delights. Among the half-dozen or so stops are Poilâne Bakery, which has been churning out the same large wheels of tangy sourdough from its basement wood-burning oven for 83 years; Le Marché Couvert (or the covered market)， where moneyed locals scoop up their saucisson, fresh milk and seasonal produce; and Pierre Hermé, France’s “Picasso of Pastries,” which sells cakes and macarons almost too pretty to eat. Along with the tour’s treats, you’re fed historical and cultural bits that will help you navigate the local food scene on your own。

　　巴黎左岸是文化、时尚和艺术财富云集之地，不过，要想浸淫于法国文化之中，最佳方式还要算享用法国美食。舌尖上的巴黎(Paris by Mouth)是一个有五年历史的美食网站，它提供三小时长的小团美食游，包括很受欢迎的“品味圣日耳曼”(Taste of St.-Germain，95欧元，按照1欧元兑换1.05美元的汇率计算，约合100美元)，能让你充分了解周末的巴黎美食。美食游有六七个停靠点，包 括普瓦拉纳面包房(Poilâne Bakery)，这里地下室碳烧炉做出的味道浓烈的大酸面团与83年前并无二致；还有带蓬市场(Le Marché Couvert)，富有的当地人在这里购买粗红肠、鲜奶和当季农产品；以及法国“糕点毕加索”皮埃尔·埃尔梅(Pierre Hermé)的糕点店，这里的蛋糕和马卡龙好看得让人舍不得吃。一路上除了享用美食，你还能获得不少历史文化小知识，可供日后自己寻找当地美食之用。

　　2. To the Top | 7:30 p.m。

　　2. 到最高点 | 晚上7点半

　　You can’t visit Paris and ignore the grandest dame of them all. The Eiffel Tower, a majestic 1,063 feet of latticed iron work planted firmly on the flat green Champ de Mars near the Seine, is the tallest structure in the city. Two elevators will whoosh you to the top (or, if you’re feeling dauntless, tackle the 1,665 steps; 15.50 euros and 5 euros, respectively) and by now it will be l’heure bleue, that magical time in the evening when the whole city is suffused in an ethereal light. If you linger long enough taking in the panorama, you’ll also be treated to the top-of-the-hour light show, when 20,000 bulbs affixed to every side of the tower twinkle and dance for five mesmerizing minutes。